Cologne doesn’t have to be a risk — but it doesn’t have to be a safe play, either. It should be something that fits your personality like a glove and feels so obvious to you. It expresses some part of your personality, if not the purest sum of all your personality traits. And finding that perfect fragrance is extremely rewarding, like catching the most elusive Pokémon or scoring a reservation at the hottest restaurant in town. And you know what—you can wear your new fragrance to that hot restaurant. (Jury’s out on whether wearing fragrance will help you catch elusive Pokémons, though.)
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Tom Ford Beau de Jour EDP Read More -
Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower EDP Read More
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Dior Sauvage Parfum Read More
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Bleu de Chanel Parfum Read More
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Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 EDT Read More
So how do you find the right fragrance? Don’t just ask your buddy which fragrance he wears. And definitely don’t ask your significant other to recommend the one they associate so happily with their previous partner. Fragrance is extremely personal; it can extract all kinds of emotions in the wearer and those who interact with that person, which underscores the importance of finding one that is uniquely yours.
It should also suit the occasion(s) in which you plan to wear the scent. A signature scent can be worn pretty much everywhere, but should be a scent with universal and perennial appeal. And while finding your signature scent is the most rewarding part of wearing cologne, it doesn’t have to stop there.
The Best Perennial Scents and Signature Scents (Plus How to Pick One)
Perennial fragrances are the best candidates for a signature scent, in that they don’t swing too far from center with their notes; they aren’t overly woody or leathery like a winter scent, nor are they extremely floral or citrusy like a summer fragrance. They might fall clearly into one of those categories, but they are rounded and balanced enough to compliment any season.
Most importantly, signature scents are your olfactive John Hancock — it’s the thing people will come to associate with you, and hopefully for the better. "Choosing a signature scent is very personal, since fine fragrance is about emotion and connection to each wearer," Amy Rueckl, Regional Director of Marketing for the Fine Fragrances division of International Flavors & Fragrances. So, get to know your potential scent rather than making a gut-reaction purchase. "Scents are designed to transform and evolve over time, so by exploring scents and continuing to smell them on your skin over hours allows you to discover the intricate ingredient layers more," Rueckl adds.
How do you know which scent is best for your signature? In short, learn about the different fragrance families (like citrus, woody, amber, floral or aromatic, among others), and inquire with anyone who wears a scent that you love. Figure out which family that scent is from, google it to learn its notes, and find a handful of options just like it. Order samples of those ones (or try them at the department store), and find one that suits you best. It’s a whole lot more rewarding than copping your buddy’s signature and claiming it as your own. (That is one of many mistakes men make when buying fragrance; in short, you should do a little bit of research, and there are terrific encyclopedic sites like Fragrantica, Parfumo, and Basenotes to help you.)
To be honest with you, most scents on this entire list could be a year-round signature. (It’s not like we expect you to buy one for each season.) Instead, use it as a guide for whichever essence you want to wear. Here, though, are five that we think fit the bill best.
To learn more about our testing methodology and how we evaluate products, head here.
Tom Ford Beau de Jour EDP
Family: Aromatic/Amber
Scent Notes: Lavender, patchouli, rosemary, and amber
Sizes: 1.7 oz. / 3.4 oz.
Prices: $150 / $215
The refreshing and dimensional Beau de Jour was so popular after its release that Mr. Ford upgraded it from Private Blend to Signature status. That is precisely why this aromatic/amber scent makes for a terrific year-round signature scent for you, too. This is one of those "buyer beware" scents, because everyone you meet is going to want to purchase it for themselves, too.
Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower EDP
Family: Soft Floral
Scent Notes: Tuberose, musk, and coconut
Size: 1.7 oz. / 3.4 oz.
Price: $295 / $440
Unlike other soft floral scents, Carnal Flower shoots to kill, seducing with sophisticated powdery notes. If you want a signature scent for dinner dates no matter the season, this is it. Imagine a brilliant blend of florals, powders, and sweet coconut. On paper it sounds a bit feminine, but in actuality it’s a perfect way to “take the edge off” and let your guard down.
Dior Sauvage Parfum
Family: Woody
Scent Notes: Sandalwood, tonka, and bergamot
Sizes: 1 oz. / 2 oz. / 3.4 oz. / 6.8 oz. / 10 oz.
Prices: $105 / $150 / $180 / $250 / $330
Here’s a punched-up woody parfum that packs warm spices with crisp undertones. Sauvage does a favor for the senses by inciting optimism and stirring possibility. It warms like whiskey but soothes like wine, and it’s far more unique than the original Sauvage, in terms of the number of people sporting it as their signature.
Bleu de Chanel Parfum
Family: Woody/Amber
Scent Notes: Cedarwood, ginger, tonka bean, and lemon
Sizes: 1.7 oz. / 3.4 oz.
Prices: $155 / $185
We all know someone who wears Chanel Bleu EDP, perhaps one of the best signature scents of our time. However, it's this powerful woody/amber parfum blend that channels Bleu best: Less citrus, more wood, and perennial potency. You’ll be able to tell folks that it’s Chanel Bleu, and watch their confusion try to process: They thought they knew Bleu, but they were just at the ground level. This is the far more rare upgrade.
Escentric Molecules Molecule 01
Family: Aromatic
Scent Notes: Dry woods — and yet like nothing at all (that's the intrigue of Iso E Super)
Size: 3.5 oz.
Price: $150
If you're a subdued dude, then less is certainly more. Pick Escentric Molecules' aromatic Molecule 01. It's an "Iso E Super" cologne, a subtle but velvety scent that simply melds with your skin to create very personal, almost pheromonal results. No two wearers will experience the same results — but all results are positive, trust.
The Best Spring Colognes
Spring scents are fresh, aromatic, and often woody or earthy. They share more in common with summer scents than winter, though our list plays strongly into woody scents as well. Think of a spring scent as something that evokes a dewy sunrise, and the optimism of new beginnings.
Calvin Klein Eternity for Men EDP
Family: Woody/Aromatic
Scent Notes: Cyprus, nutmeg, sage, suede, and vetiver
Size: 3.3 oz.
Price: $109
A re-up of Calvin's original Eternity for Men, this EDP is a dial-up on cypress notes, further warmed by aromatic aromas. That balance makes this a shoulder-season staple, but also one that you can sport all year.
Maison Louis Marie No.04 Bois de Balincourt Perfume Oil
Family: Woody/Amber
Scent Notes: Cedar, sandalwood, nutmeg, and cinnamon
Sizes: 0.1 oz. / 0.5 oz.
Prices: $16 / $65
With all of its woody and amber notes, you'd think Bois de Balincourt would be a winter-weather wear. But it thrives in spring, thanks to an earthy essence that soothes like April's first rain. (We like this roll-on perfume oil specifically, but the EDP version is every bit as satisfying.)
Hermès Terre d’Hermès EDT
Family: Woody/Citrus
Scent Notes: Cedar, resin, and lemon
Sizes: 1.7 oz. / 3.4 oz. / 6.7 oz.
Prices: $100 / $134 / $186
In the consumer-favorite Terre d’Hermès, woody, citrus, and resinous notes are muddled together, creating an earthy, crisp cocktail that announces high taste. This EDT is also a candidate for your own signature scent, and one of the industry's best recipes. Test it out in spring, to complement the awakening of your own senses.
Louis Vuitton Orage EDP
Family: Citrus/Woody
Scent Notes: Iris, patchouli, bergamot, and vetiver
Sizes: 3.4 oz. / 6.7 oz.
Prices: $300 / $430
Orage expertly toes the olfactive line between aromatic and woody. The combination of these two scent families is like a silent lightning storm across a purple sky, the air ripe with the preciousness and power of nature, both at once. In a word: Alive.
Histoires de Parfums 1828 EDP
Family: Aromatic
Scent Notes: Pine, eucalyptus, grapefruit, and pepper
Size: 4.1 oz.
Price: $185
An aromatic ode to the expeditionist Jules Verne, 1828 tells his tale on the high seas: A wood chest carries spices gathered far and wide, their scent dispersed by the ocean breeze as the rising tide flirts its way to shore.
The Best Summer Colognes
Summer scents are as bright, crisp, and sweet as the days are long. They bring to mind things like sailing, picnics in the park, beach days or road trips down the coast. Look for aromatic, citrus, and floral notes, above all else.
Prada L’Homme EDT
Family: Amber/Floral
Scent Notes: Iris, violet, amber, cedar, and patchouli
Size: 3.4 oz.
Price: $115
Just as the sun rises and sets, L'Homme uplifts with florals and ambrous spices, but sets on a foundation of heftier wood notes. It is perhaps the best rounded scent of the lot, and as rich as an endless summer.
Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme EDT
Family: Citrus/Woody
Scent Notes: Yuzu lemon, lotus, vetiver, and cedar
Sizes: 2.5 oz. / 4.2 oz. / 6.7 oz.
Prices: $85 / $108 / $135
A burst of citrus gives L'Eau d'Issey its essence, and makes it a crisp, refreshing frontrunner for summer. Supporting the argument are mood-boosting woody-floral notes. And just to confirm: We’ve all worn this one at some point, right? It’s the universal upgrade from, say, Abercrombie Fierce, but so deserved of a spot on this "Best Ever" list.
Ralph Lauren Polo Blue EDP
Family: Aromatic/Aquatic
Scent Notes: Marine notes, suede, bergamot, and vetiver
Sizes: 4.2 oz. / 6.7 oz. / 5.1 oz. refill
Prices: $128 / $147 / $92
Of all the Polo expressions out there, the label is best in aromatic and aquatic blue. This scent channels open skies and crystal-clear waters, and will even pick you up on the dreariest winter day. You don't need Croakies and Sperrys for this scent to refresh and uplift; it instantly recalls bright, boundless memories.
Le Labo Bergamote 22 EDP
Family: Citrus
Scent Notes: Bergamot, lemon, vetiver, and orange blossom
Sizes: 0.5 oz. / 1.7 oz. / 3.4 oz.
Prices: $99 / $230 / $322
Though its initial nickname was "Fire Cologne," Bergamote 22 is anything but warm and punishing. Instead, the citrus scent is crisp and alluring — accidentally sensual, but in an innocent summery kind of way. That's fiery enough, in our book. It’s a terrific unisex fragrance, too; and if she adopts it as her own, you’ll get to enjoy it from the other side of the scent experience—that’s a big win, too.
Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDT
Family: Aromatic/Citrus
Scent Notes: Bergamot, marine notes, rosemary, and cedar
Sizes: 0.67 oz. / 1.7 oz. / 3.4 oz. / 6.7 oz. / 10.1 oz.
Prices: $42 / $79 / $110 / $155 / $185
Armani’s sea-inspired, summertime fragrance floats above its competitors with the refreshing and aromatic powers of citrus and sea waters. You’ll feel like you’re careening over the Mediterranean coastline with this one, or waving up to those cars from your yacht below.
The Best Fall Colognes
Autumn scents play well with the changing colors of fall, the sleeves of our shirts getting longer, and the days growing shorter. They might have some notes in common with summer — a powdery or floral essence here or there — but they’re much likelier to weigh into winter with woody, spicy and amber notes.
Diptyque Orphéon EDP
Family: Woody/Aromatic
Scent Notes: Powder, cedar, jasmine, and tonka
Size: 2.5 oz.
Price: $220
Sprightly, convivial, fresh, and effervescent. These all describe Diptyque's woody aromatic ode to 1960s Paris. It's a frontrunner for your signature scent, and melts away stress with its powdery projection.
Ermenegildo Zegna Florentine Iris EDP
Family: Soft Floral
Scent Notes: Iris, musk, and violet
Size: 3.4 oz.
Price: $260
There’s nothing like a late-bloom floral to lighten the spirits as summer concludes. Zegna’s floral blend also combines a squeeze of citrus and dash of musk to give this scent a bright, albeit autumnal, finish. It feels very professorial, too—a nice way to come across as smart and sophisticated.
Etat Libre d'Orange Exit the King EDP
Family: Aromatic/Floral
Scent Notes: Soap, musk, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, and moss
Sizes: 1.7 oz. / 3.4 oz.
Prices: $105 / $165
You know soap smells good, but you may not realize how wonderful that smell works in perfumery, too. Enter this unisex, aromatic sensation, Exit the King, which holds court with floral, earthy, spicy, and woody notes alike. But make no mistake: the soapy notes are king here, and thank goodness for that.
Caswell-Massey Oaire EDP
Family: Aromatic/Fougère
Scent Notes: Cedar, sage, patchouli, suede musk, resin, timur pepper
Sizes: 0.25 oz. / 3.4 oz.
Prices: $40 / $200
Caswell-Massey has a legacy as old as the United States itself, with one George Washington an original wearer of the brand’s cornerstone Number Six EDP. And while that one is righteously deemed a gem, we’re looking forward: Oaire is emblematic of the luxury label’s modernity, an expression of, well, expressionism. If you’re the kind of guy who gets lots in his thoughts, or who simply overanalyzes every detail of the latest Scorsese film, then here’s a fragrance to ponder. Oaire is smart, sophisticated, and a bit navel-gazy, too. It’s the equivalent of that 2-drinks-deep buzz — enough to have your bearings, but just enough to unlock the next level of theories and inhibitions.
Arquiste Nanban EDP
Family: Amber
Scent Notes: Myrrh, leather, pepper, saffron, coffee, and sandalwood
Size: 3.4 oz.
Price: $205
This golden grenade is an explosion of sensual amber essentials. Arquiste never misses a beat with its fragrances, and this one is its most glowing scent of them all. It’s a great date-night pick, too, thanks to its “come hither-ness” that doesn’t come across as too aggressive, either.
The Best Winter Colognes
Autumn scents play well with the changing colors of fall, the sleeves of our shirts getting longer, and the days growing shorter. They might have some notes in common with summer — a powdery or floral essence here or there — but they’re much likelier to weigh into winter with woody, spicy, and amber notes.
Krigler Palais Monarchie 218 Parfum
Family: Amber
Scent Notes: Almond, pear, cinnamon, vanilla, whipped cream and Madeleine cake
Sizes: 0.07 oz. / 1.7 oz. / 3.4 oz.
Prices: $40 / $555 / $725
Palais Monarchie is an amber gourmand creation sweet enough to drink, and it's a nod to Vienna's 19th-century coffeehouse scene, too—as well as the prestigious writers who met there (Stefan Zweig, Hermann Bahr, Rudolf Steiner). It boasts an incredible 100+ notes, too, which you appreciate instantly — and the many hours later, as the top-shelf quality still emanates from your skin.
Amouage Jubilation EDP
Family: Amber/Woody
Scent Notes: Patchouli, resin, oud wood, and myrrh
Size: 3.4 oz.
Price: $360
Amouage is one of the world’s most prestigious perfumeries, and Jubilation is among its most timeless scents. And timeless as it may be, it is still a seasonal scent, pairing best with winter thanks to a rich and relaxing woody-amber recipe. Wear it on date night too, whydontcha.
Gabar No. II Ground EDP
Family: Amber
Scent Notes: Woodbark, sandalwood, saffron, fig, musk, and orris
Sizes: 1.7 oz.
Price: $150
Myanmar's ancient city Bagan is the inspiration behind Gabar's excellent Ground fragrance. That explains its powdery, powerful anchor, which both suggests lore and centers the mind. If any scent on this roster is like olfactive Xanax, then Ground is it: Keep it close for the occasional head-clearing huff.
Comme des Garçons 2 Man EDT
Family: Amber
Scent Notes: Incense, mahogany, leather, and vetiver
Sizes: 1.7 oz. / 3.4 oz.
Prices: $90 / $120
CdG’s soft amber scent is equal parts alluring and intellectual—the most mysterious in the room, as far as noses are concerned. Incense, leather, and mahogany make for a head-turning number, and a head-nuzzling number too. And for that, 2 Man a terrific gift for your +1.
Maison Margiela REPLICA By the Fireplace EDT
Family: Amber
Scent Notes: Cloves, balsam, guaiac wood, vanilla, and chestnut
Sizes: 0.34 oz. / 1 oz. / 3.4 oz. / 3.4 oz. refill
Prices: $35 / $85 / $160 / $118
By the Fireplace is the olfactive realization of “chestnuts roasting on an open fire”. It warms the skin and spirits, a better winter companion than Frosty himself. You can practically taste its notes, too, with spicy clove and gourmand vanilla notes standing out from its many woody layers.
Building a Fragrance Wardrobe
Regardless of where you are in your fragrance-finding journey, one thing to keep in the back of your mind is the eventual fragrance wardrobe you wish to have—and this "wardrobe" could be just a few fragrances in total, but something that allows you to switch scents depending on the season or occasion. Ideally you’ll still have that go-to “staple” signature scent, but the others will balance the portfolio.
"When building a fragrance wardrobe outside of your signature scent, it’s helpful to think of the occasions where you want to wear fragrance," says Rueckl. Take social engagements as an example: "You might want something more fresh, clean, and close to the skin, but for date nights, you may want to explore something with contrast of freshness and dark, spicy, or musky background notes to strike up a conversation or get close to someone."
Then, for a vacation or summer weekend, it’s the aquatic notes that really shine, up there with mineral, fresh green, or floral notes, says Rueckl. Winter scents look a lot like date-night scents, in that they are warming, if not a pinch less alluring. Think ambery, smoky and woody notes.
"Remember, scent can offer a reflection of yourself, offer connection, or even transport you to a moment in time so a scent wardrobe can be a great way to play and discover scents you might not wear every day," Rueckl adds. It’s the exact reason those summery notes might also be well suited for the dregs of winter: It’s like Vitamin D for the spirits, as you look forward to the next vacation or sunnier horizons.
Seasonality, Scent Families, and Concentration
It’s also important to explain how scent classification works, across three different spectrums.
Fragrance Families and Seasonality
We touched on a few different "notes" and fragrance "families" above, as well as seasonality. There is a scent classification system devised by Michael Edwards of Fragrances of the World, called the Fragrance Wheel. This wheel sorts colognes into fourteen different categories, each “family” adjacent to seasonal contemporaries.
You’ve got woody notes, including dry woods and mossy woods, plus lush greens and various ambers or florals. There’s also fruity, water, citrus, aromatic, and fougère (that last one is very fern-like). You can visualize where most of them would place on a calendar, too, in terms of how they satisfy the season: Spicy ambers are very wintery, while florals are springy and forest-like greens could run from April through October.
But looking at a cologne’s notes won’t tell you a thing about its seasonality or classification. You’ve got to see how it wears, because the perfumer has layered those notes and weighted them in a specific and meticulous manner—so the only way to know is to try it out and let it set on the skin for a few hours. Pay attention to the feelings that this scent gives you, and then see if it fits your expectations for the scent. If you are looking for a date night cologne, is this one helping boost the mood and enhance your confidence? If it’s a signature scent, is it not polarizing, and will it wear well between work and happy hour, as well as between summer and winter?
And don’t just stick with the safe "masculine" notes, like woods and ambers. Consider the entire palette, like floral, green, or fresh accords. That last one—fresh—is a favorite of perfumer Matthew J. Sánchez, founder of Matteo Parfums. "The ‘fresh’ family of scents is often affiliated with citrus and light-green notes, because it’s airy, elevated, and brightens up any day," says Sanchez. He also loves watery notes: "Aquatic fragrances are like pervasive summer, since they ooze cleanliness, business casual, and tend to finish on a powdery note," he says.
Concentration
Ever wonder what "Eau de Toilette" and "Eau de Parfum" mean? These are classifications based on the concentration of perfume oils in each scent.
Simply put: The more perfume oils in a fragrance, the longer it should last or the better it should project. Those performance metrics aren’t always proportionate to the perfume concentration, but you can trust that “less is more” with higher concentrations.
Eau de Toilette (EDT) and Eau de Parfum (EDP) are the most common categories. EDTs usually have 5-8 percent perfume oil in their bottle, while EDPs have 8-15 percent. On the light side of those two, you have Eau Fraiches as the lightest option, with 1-3 percent, and Eau de Colognes with 3-5 percent. (If you see the word "cologne" referring to a men’s scent, it doesn’t necessarily mean it has a light concentration; "cologne" is just the word the industry has assigned to men’s scents.) And on the heavier end of the scent spectrum, you have parfums and extraits, which are often labeled interchangeably; their concentrations can range from 15 to 40 percent.
A fragrances price might often boil down to what percentage of that bottle is perfume oils—and moreover, how rare or expensive it is to use the raw materials that produced those oils. Generally, you’ll be fine shopping in the EDT and EDP categories, but know that an EDP which is twice as expensive as an EDT might also last twice as long, in two different ways: It might last twice as long each day you wear it, or you might be able to apply half as much to produce the same effect as the EDT, thus making the bottle last twice as long.
