Once upon a time, when mechanical watches were the world’s standard timekeepers — and long before Rolex was a "luxury" brand according to the contemporary definition — certain governments and individual military units provided elite soldiers with Rolex watches as "issued" kit. Given their robustness, wide availability and the willingness of the brand (at the time) to customize them, it’s no big surprise that these timepieces, now seen as luxury items, were utilized as knockaround tools.
This is no longer really the case today.
The military-issued Rolex Submariner, or “mil-Sub,” has become one of the most legendary, sought-after, downright expensive timepieces in contemporary watch collecting. The Tudor mil-Sub, made by Rolex’s sister company, isn’t far behind.
So few of these watches exist that discovering one in good, “correct” condition — especially the Rolex variety — is like finding buried treasure. Until fairly recently, it seemed like the story of these very special pieces of kit ended in the late 1970s. But we now know that's not quite true.
Because while the world’s militaries might not issue mechanical watches anymore, certain units do place special orders from Rolex, Tudor and other companies. (Tudor certainly continues this tradition — Rolex seems to have stopped producing them in the early 2010s, though it’s difficult to know with absolute certainty, as the company doesn’t comment on, well … much of anything.)
Other watch companies — such as Bremont, which has an entire division devoted to special projects — do collaborate on these types of orders as well. But the phenomenon is particularly notable with respect to Rolex and Tudor given their long history of producing military watches, as well as their place within the modern pantheon of luxury brands.
As these watches are signed with the name of the respective unit, it’s understood that they’re mostly commemorative pieces offered for purchase to members/ex-members. (No commando is going into combat with kit that screams “I am a commando from X Unit” on it, you dig? Though those from non-special-operations units might don equipment featuring unit designations.)
Still, the fact that soldiers from top units are spending big money on professional-grade timepieces from two companies that used to provide issued watches (to some of these same units) is certainly notable.
Tudor, for its part, declined to comment on these special orders — a decision that is certainly understandable given who its customers are. But as certain of these mil-Subs have come to auction over the years, we do have information on the watches themselves available to us. The following crop of modern military watches features more than just Submariners — we’re also including other types of Rolex and Tudor dive watches, as well as some altogether different varieties of tool watch.
Before we examine the contemporary mil-Subs and others, let’s take a short detour down memory lane for those who might be unfamiliar with the original variety.
A (Very) Brief History of the Mil-Sub
Rolex
In the late 1950s, the Royal Navy came knocking on Rolex’s door.
It was looking for a timepiece that would hold up to the rigors of combat with which to equip its most elite forces. The Crown responded with the reference 6538 Submariner, 50 of which were furnished to Her Majesty’s government. Modified with nickel-plated silver bezels with coin edges that were of larger diameter than the standard 6538 bezel — plus soldered spring bars that could only take a pass-through strap — these watches were christened the “A/6538” and were in use by Royal Navy divers until 1967.
At this point, the government switched over to Omega’s Seamaster 300, which was in service until 1971. Between 1971 and 1979, Rolex provided three distinct references of modified 5513 Submariners — “militarized” versions of its newest, non-Chronometer certified dive watch. The ref. 5513, 5513/5517, and 5517 featured fully graduated dive bezels, fixed spring bars, and, most distinctly, prominent sword handsets and circled “T” markings (indicating tritium lume) that rendered them instantly recognizable.
These watches were marked “W10” when issued to the army’s Special Air Service and “0552” when issued to the navy’s Special Boat Service, and only around 1,200 examples were produced, roughly 180 of which are known today. (The S.A.S. and S.B.S. remain two of Great Britain’s “tier-one” special operations units. Founded during the Second World War, they are models for many of the world’s elite fighting forces.)
Tudor
While the Ministry of Defense had stringent requirements for its Rolex Submariners, numerous militaries around the world ordered Tudor Submariners for use by their fighting forces, and many of these were basically unmodified. Thus there are myriad “correct” Tudor mil-Subs, though by far the most famous are those issued to the French Marine Nationale — and often referred to as the "Tudor M.N."
Beginning with the 37mm reference 7922 in the 1950s and ending with the reference 79090 in the 1990s, Tudor supplied various navies with its Submariners. As Tudor received feedback — mostly from the M.N. — it would upgrade its watches with new features, such as oversized crowns, rounder crown guards, and its famed “snowflake” dial, upon which a special handset with a snowflake-shaped hour hand vastly improved underwater visibility. It even provided a special reference to the Canadian military that featured snowflake hands combined with rectangular 3, 6 and 9 indices, a triangular 12 index, and circular indices for the remaining numbers.
Besides France and Canada, other countries that issued Tudor mil-Subs include Jamaica, South Africa, the United States, Argentina and Israel. Due to the long period during which they were issued, various references issued and secrecy surrounding some of the receiving units, pinning down a total production number of Tudor mil-Subs is difficult. But anytime one comes up for auction and is authenticated — especially if it comes complete with a military-issued log or other accoutrement — one can expect five-figure auction results at the very least.
Modern Rolex and Tudor Mil-Subs
Rolex “Special Reconnaissance Regiment” Submariner Ref. 116610
- Pieces Issued: 167
- Diameter: 40mm
- Dial Color: Black
- Movement: Rolex Calibre 3135
- Water Resistance: 300m
The sister watch — if it can be thus called — to an Explorer II ref. 16570 T (see below), this Submariner ref. 116610 was made for members of the British army’s Special Reconnaissance Regiment, a special operations force formed in 2005 to collect intelligence related to counter-terror activities.
A total of 167 pieces were issued, but information about the watch is nearly as murky as details about the unit itself. But it seems that each example came with a certificate stating the purchasing soldier’s name, rank, service number and the watch’s serial number. (While the Explorer II made for S.R.R. personnel dates to around the time of the unit’s foundation — and is thus a “5-digit” model — the Sub dates to circa 2011 and later, and is thus a 6-digit watch.)
Rolex "Polipetto" Sea-Dweller Ref. 16600
- Pieces Issued: 78
- Diameter: 40mm
- Dial Color: Black
- Movement: Rolex Calibre 3135
- Water Resistance: 1220m
A five-digit Rolex tool watch made for a special diving unit engraved with an octopus? This is some Spectre-looking shit, right here! Technically, this isn’t a mil-Sub, but a “mil-Dweller” — a Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 16610.
Dating to circa 2008 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Italian State Police’s diving corps, it was produced in a run of just 78 pieces; engraved “POLIZIA DI STATO SOMMOZZATORI 1958-2008,” certain examples also include the certification number of their respective divers. On the dial, each features the “polipetto” (or small octopus), giving the watch its nickname, plus the words “POLIZIA DI STATO SOMMOZZATORI.” This watch is so undeniably rare and dope that an example sold in 2019 by Christie’s hammered for close to 140,000 CHF (roughly $154,634 USD).
Rolex Project X Designs “Special Forces Issue” Submariner ref. 116610
- Pieces Issued: ?
- Diameter: 40mm
- Dial Color: Black
- Movement: Rolex Calibre 3135
- Water Resistance: 300m
While this particular mil-Sub wasn’t actually produced by Rolex — but rather is a third-party modification of an off-the-shelf Rolex product — it merits inclusion for its interesting backstory: Evidently, a delegation of ex-British special operations types worked with London-based Project X designs to produce a contemporary, customized take on the vintage 5513/5517-era mil-Subs of old.
Using as its base the ref. 116610 Submariner Date, this timepiece has features that will be familiar to military watch fans: a fully graduated bezel (in rubber!), fixed spring bars and sword hands all figure in the design. Produced in both steel and black DLC versions, these watches were evidently available only to ex-UK Special Forces at first, and then subsequently made available to the general public.
Tudor “Platinum Jubilee RaSP” Black Bay Fifty-Eight Ref. 79030B
- Pieces Issued: 300
- Diameter: 39mm
- Dial Color: Blue
- Movement: Tudor Calibre MT5402
- Water Resistance: 200m
Here’s something we haven’t seen yet: a custom-dial Black Bay Fifty-Eight. This particular blue-dialed ref. 79030B was made to coincide with Queen Elizabeth’s 2022 Platinum Jubilee — the 70th anniversary of her ascent to the throne in 1952. But how is it a “mil-Sub,” you might ask? It was produced in a limited run of 300 pieces for “RaSP,” or Royalty and Specialist Protection unit.
This command within the Specialist Operations directorate of London’s Metropolitan Police Service is charged with close protection of the royal family and government officials. Featuring the unit’s badge on the dial — a crown above a Tudor rose — it’s laser-engraved with the unit insignia on the caseback, along with “ROYALTY AND SPECIALIST PROTECTION, PLATINUM JUBILEE 2022,” the officer’s serial number and the limited edition number out of 300 pieces.
Tudor “Para” Pelagos Ref. M25600TN
- Pieces Issued: 80
- Diameter: 42.5mm
- Dial Color: Black
- Movement: Tudor Calibre MT5612
- Water Resistance: 500m
In 2022, Britain’s Parachute regiment celebrated its 80th year in active duty. To commemorate the occasion, a special Tudor Pelagos ref. M25600TN was commissioned in a limited run of 80 pieces for unit personnel. The dial features the regimental insignia, which is also present on the caseback along with locations in which the unit has received battle honors. (These date back to the Second World War and include Normandy and Arnhem. Stop reading right now and go watch A Bridge Too Far for more info.)
Signed “1942-2022” and featuring the watch’s individual limited-edition number, this extremely special run of titanium Pelagos dive watches is a fitting tribute to one of the most battle-hardened outfits in the British army.
Tudor “Royal Navy Clearance Diver” Pelagos Ref. M25600TB
- Pieces Issued: 70
- Diameter: 42.5mm
- Dial Color: Blue
- Movement: Tudor Calibre MT5612
- Water Resistance: 500m
Another anniversary piece, this Tudor Pelagos ref. M25600TB celebrates 70 years of the Royal Navy’s Clearance Diver program. This one is interesting: The dial, rather than featuring a unit crest or badge, actually says “Royal Navy Clearance Diver, 70th Anniversary” beneath “PELAGOS, Chronometer, Officially Certified” — if you didn’t know to read the diminutive text, you’d completely miss it!
Flip the blue titanium diver over, however, and you are indeed greeted with the unit crest and the words “ROYAL NAVY CLEARANCE DIVER, ALPHA SQUADRON, LIMITED EDITION,” and the piece’s L.E. number out of 70 examples. A high-tech dive watch fitted with a helium escape valve that’s water resistant to 500m, the Pelagos is a fitting timepiece for such a unit.
Tudor “Royal Engineers Commandos” Pelagos Ref. M25600TN
- Pieces Issued: 59
- Diameter: 42.5mm
- Dial Color: Black
- Movement: Tudor Calibre MT5612
- Water Resistance: 500m
Details around this timepiece, a limited edition of just 59 pieces, are scarce. A glance through the unit’s history reveals a spaghetti-like web of designations and redesignations of the unit itself, parent units, etc., but it appears that the timepiece was made available to members of what today is designated “24 Commando Royal Engineers,” an outfit in the British Army’s Royal Engineers that supports 3 Commando Brigade.
The watch itself is another Pelagos ref. M25600TN whose dial features the iconic Fairburn-Sykes commando knife, “RE” for “Royal Engineers,” and “COMMANDO.” On the back is the individual soldier’s serial number, the watch’s limited=edition number out of 59 pieces, and “UNITED WE CONQUER,” a motto of the commandos that can be found on the Commando Memorial in Scotland (to which we highly recommend a visit).
Rolex “Sea King” GMT-Master II Ref. 116710LN
- Pieces Issued: 123
- Diameter: 40mm
- Dial Color: Black
- Movement: Rolex Calibre 3186
- Water Resistance: 100m
The Sea King helicopter served the British military from 1969 through 2018 — quite a run for an aircraft — in several roles, including anti-submarine, utility/troop insertion, airborne early warning and SAR (search and rescue). In 2014, to commemorate the helo, a Royal Navy serviceman who had spent many years in and around the Sea King approached Rolex to make a commemorative piece.
Only available to those who had operated with the Sea King, this special run of just 123 GMT-Master II reference 116710LN watches features a deep engraving of the Sea King on the caseback, plus the motto “Fear God, Honour The King, SEA KING Since 1969” and the watch’s LE number. Once again, the choice of a GMT-equipped watch is fitting — especially for air crews who were/are operating far from home.
Rolex “Special Air Service” Explorer II Ref. 216570
- Pieces Issued: ~100-150
- Diameter: 42mm
- Dial Color: Black or white
- Movement: Rolex Calibre 3187
- Water Resistance: 100m
While laid up in hospital in Egypt in 1941 after a parachute jump gone awry, a young British officer named David Stirling conceived of a small raiding force that would be able to quickly and stealthily attack behind enemy lines — thus, the Special Air Service was born. Around 2012, Rolex delivered a run of roughly 100 pieces of the ref. 216570 Explorer II to S.A.S. personnel.
Signed with the unit motto “Who Dares Wins” on the case flank and engraved on the caseback with the unit’s winged dagger insignia, “22 Special Air Service,” and the serviceman’s initials and service number, it was produced in both black and white dials, of which the latter is understood to be rarer. While not technically a mil-Sub, as it’s not a Submariner dive watch, the choice of an Explorer II is fitting, considering its purpose and GMT functionality: the S.A.S. is a commando unit within the army, rather than the navy, and operates around the world.
Rolex “Special Reconnaissance Regiment” Explorer II Ref. 16570 T
- Pieces Issued: 139
- Diameter: 39mm
- Dial Color: Black
- Movement: Rolex Calibre 3185
- Water Resistance: 100m
In 2005, the British Ministry of Defense spun up a new special operations unit dubbed the Special Reconnaissance Regiment. Thought to number between 400 and 600 personnel, the outfit presumably handles surveillance and intelligence gathering related to counter-terror operations.
Two Rolex timepieces exist to celebrate this special unit, the first of which is an Explorer II ref. 16570 T. The caseback features a deep engraving of the unit crest — a Corinthian helmet with Excalibur and the word “RECONNAISSANCE” — plus the words “SRR” and the limited-edition number out of 139 pieces (see image near the top of this article). Dating to the early 2000s, which coincided with the end of the “5-digit” Rolex era, this fantastically cool watch features a partner timepiece: a Rolex Submariner ref. 116610.
